I thought I’d write a quick blog on how to paint a shed. Even though it’s a relatively simple task, if you want a shed to look good and last, then there are a few things you need to consider.
Whether it’s a basic bin-store, a gardener’s tool repository, or a glamorous outside entertaining space, I’m guessing that most houses in the UK have some form of shed. Although I specialise in internal domestic decorating, in my seventeen years as a Professional Decorator, I’ve painted a fair few. I thought I’d share my experience on how (and why) to paint a shed.
Why Paint a Shed?
In fact, let’s start briefly with the “why?”. There are two main reasons to paint a shed – protection and aesthetic.
Protection – giving your new shed a couple of coats of something that’s designed to deal with the British weather will help it to last longer, protecting it from rot and meaning you can enjoy your man cave (or she shed) for years to come, without having to worry about repairs or replacement.
Aesthetics – we now have a far broader colour palette available for use in our gardens, thanks to products such as Sadolin Superdec, Cuprinol Garden Shades, and Dulux Trade Ultimate Opaque Woodstain.
Whether you want to make a feature of your shed, theme it the same colour as your garden furniture, or paint it the same colour as the fence to make it less noticeable, there is an almost endless choice of colours available.
But if colour’s not your thing, a clear wood preserver (such as Barrettine Wood Preserver), or a coat of UV Protecting Oil (such as Fiddes Exterior High Build Wood Oil) will enhance the natural wood and help protect it for years to come.
Tools & Equipment Needed – Shopping List
The tools and supplies you need for painting a shed will depend on whether it’s a new shed, or one that’s been in situ for a while and needs a bit of a facelift. The following is a full list, much of which you may not need for a new shed:
- Stepladder/hop-up
- Dust sheets if the area around the shed needs protecting
- Stiff scrubbing brush and/or wire brush
- Moss & Algae treatment
- Garden Sprayer (possibly)
- Wood hardener/stabiliser
- Wood filler suitable for external use (see our blog on “The Best Filler for Exterior Wood”)
- Replacement timber (possibly)
- Sandpaper
- Paint brushes (more detail below)
- Your wood preserver/oil/treatment/stain/paint of choice
Steps for Painting a Shed
The first few steps are required for an “established” shed that’s in need of a bit of TLC. If you have a new shed, skip straight to Step 4.
Inspect and clean all the surfaces thoroughly
You’re looking for signs of moss and/or algae growth, and rot. It’s not always easy to see because often rainwater splashes up, carrying dirt with it, and sheds end up wearing a light coating of dust, soil and assorted debris.
Clean all this off with a stiff brush; on rough sawn timber I use a wire brush, but on smooth planed timber I prefer to use a stiff scrubbing brush so as not to damage the surface. Even if there is no algae growth or rot, it’s good to get the dirt brushed off prior to painting.
Treat any moss or algae growth
Depending on where the shed is, you may be able to spray on your algae treatment (if there is no risk of the spray landing on nearby plants). Otherwise, it’s best to use an old paint brush. These treatments often take a few days to kill off the moss and algae, after which you need to get your stiff brush out again to brush away the dead algae. Click here to see online prices.
Deal with any areas of rot
For minor areas of rot, cut away all the soft wood to get back to solid timber. Coat the affected area thoroughly with a wood hardener/stabiliser (such as Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener or Oxera 2-part Rebuild Stabiliser) and allow time for this to soak into the wood and dry. Then apply your wood filler to replace the rotten wood that you have removed. Allow to cure properly, and then sand smooth.
On larger repairs (or on rough sawn timber, where patches of smooth filler will be really obvious), you may need to remove a whole piece of timber and replace it.
NB: depending on what you are using to paint your shed, you may want to try out your filler/paint combination on a piece of scrap timber first. Filler can be really obvious if you are using a clear oil, for example.
I have known some semi-transparent wood stains to react with fillers and not “take” properly. If you are using an opaque colour, you will generally be ok, but it does no harm to “spot prime” the filler first before painting. If your choice of coating is not compatible with using filler, your only option is to replace either the whole piece of timber, or to splice in a small piece, if your woodworking skills are up to it.
Paint
Start by covering anything near the shed that needs protecting (e.g. patios) with dust sheets for protection (I tend to use old ones that are nearing the end of their lives). It’s difficult to give hard and fast rules on how to apply your oil, preserver, wood stain, treatment, or paint, simply because there are so many options available and the application method will be different for each.
Read the instructions carefully, choose a warm day when there is no risk of rain, and choose an appropriate paint brush. Rough sawn timber is just that – it’s rough. So, I tend to use an old brush that is nearing the end of its working life for this type of job, whereas on smooth planed timber I may opt for a slightly better brush. Again, check the instructions on the tin as most will say “apply with a good quality synthetic brush”, for example.
Best Products for Painting a Shed
Wood Preserver
This soaks into the wood and protects it. It comes in a clear, which cause a slight change of colour depending on the timber, but you are still left with a natural timber look. It also comes in tinted colours.
Wood preserver will not stop the wood from aging and “greying” naturally over time due to weathering but will help prolong its life.
It also helps keep water from soaking into the timber, which prevents rot.
My favourite is Barrettine wood preserver, which does come in tinted colours as well as clear. Think of it as a premium shed and fence treatment. The protection it gives your shed is second-to-none! Barrettine wood preserver is hydrophobic, which means it repels water. When it rains, you can see the water bead up and roll off your shed. It lasts too, so you won’t need to paint your shed again for a number of years.
Fence & Shed Treatment
These are good “affordable” products that soak into the timber and add colour (typically a limited choice of colours). Fence & shed treatment is very easy to use, easy to clean up afterwards, and environmentally friendly. The downside it the longevity of the product, so you will need to paint your shed again further down the line.
Sadolin Shed & Fence is as good as any. It’s cheap, looks great, has fantastic opacity, and seems to last longer than some of the others I’ve used.
Wood stain
Some exterior wood stains are oil-based, some water-based. They soak into the wood and give rich, long-lasting colour (generally “natural wood shades) and protection, but they are not a cheap option.
Oil-based lasts a lot longer than water-based on a shed. It’s also thinner and seems to penetrate the wood better. The best available is Sadolin Classic. It’ll last for years, offers great protection, and look great. Plus, unlike others I’ve used, Sadolin Classic often looks great after a single coat.
Opaque Wood Stain
These products are not cheap, but they are easy to apply, and offer a huge choice of colours (coincidentally, all the sheds shown in this blog were painted with Sadolin Superdec, it’s a product I love using).
I couldn’t write a blog on how to paint a shed without mentioning Sadolin Superdec. It’s probably the most popular multi-surface paint amongst other decorators too. The opacity is poor in white, but if you want a solid “block” colour on your shed, then you won’t find a better product. It’ll look great and last for years.
FAQs
Do you need to prime a shed before painting?
No, you don’t need to prime a shed before painting it, unless you’re using a traditional paint system (satinwood, gloss etc.). Most shed and fence treatments, or multi-surface paints are an all-in-one product.
What kind of paint do you use on a shed?
You can go for traditional shed and fence treatment, wood stain, or a multi-surface paint like Sadolin Superdec. It just depends on what look you’re going for.
Should you paint a shed with a roller or brush?
Sawn timber is rough, so it’s a lot easier to paint it with a 4-inch long-pile roller. If your shed is smooth, then a paint brush is all you need.
Should I pressure wash my shed before painting?
Pressure washing is a good way to clean a shed, but you do force water into the wood, which can mean you need to wait for a week or so before painting. You can also open the grain if the wood swells because of the added moisture.
Is it worth painting a shed?
Painting a shed not only looks good, but it preserves it. It stops wood from rotting and metal from rusting.
Does painting a shed make it waterproof?
It does to a point. It stops the wood from absorbing water, especially if you use something like Barrettine Wood Preserver. However, it won’t stop leaks.
Can I paint a pressure treated shed?
Pressure treated, or “tanalised” sheds can be painted, however you need to wait for a year before doing so. Otherwise, your paint will not absorb into the wood and will fail over time.
Final Thoughts
Whatever your choice of product, painting your shed is going to enhance both its appearance and its life expectancy. So now you know how to paint a shed, I really can’t think of any reason NOT to do it. It’s not a massive job that’s going to take weeks to complete, and it gets you outside on a nice sunny day, with the promise of a cold beer as a reward when its finished.
Good advice. I have personally used Johnstone’s Trade Woodworks Opaque Wood Finish (both solvent based and Quick Dry water based) and the durability (ten years to recoat in my experience) is outstanding. Barrettine also make a solvent based wood preservative which contains all the goodies in the preservative recommended by Mike, but is intended to be painted over. It preserves the wood beneath the stain or paint film. It is called Universal Preserver. It does not contain the waterproofing waxes etc that would inhibit the adhesion of a subsequent coating. It comes in a similar can and is a little bit cheaper.
Sorry…. that should be Robin, not mike!